Sunday, January 31, 2010

Udaipur, Day Two

Our second day in Udaipur gave us a chance to explore some of the surrounding areas. A hired car took us to a few small temples outside of the city and to a large temple complex about two hours north of Udaipur. The temple complex at Ranakpur is the largest place of worship in the Jain faith.

Ranakpur

The drive was through some fairly rural areas and we got to see a lot of the countryside. This part of Rajasthan is very arid and fairly mountainous. Along the drive we encountered a number of monkeys. They are NOT friendly.

Udaipur, Day One

The two of us left Hyderabad early Thursday morning to visit the city of Udaipur in Rajasthan for the weekend. Udaipur (or, "the diaper", as Woodson dubbed it) is absolutely gorgeous. It is a relatively small town (about 600,000 people) that sits in a valley of an arid mountain region and features two central lakes. Two palaces sit in the middle of one of the lakes.

City Palace

Westerners may know Udaipur from the 1980s James Bond film "Octopussy", which was predominantly filmed in Udaipur and is a claim to fame for the town. The movie is shown every night at a number of restaurants and bars throughout the city.

The Lake Palace

After arriving at about noon, we walked through the city and toured the City Palace (there are four palaces in the city). We were a bit parched after exploring, so we thought high tea at the palace was in order. In true maharajah fashion, we enjoyed tea time at the palace in an enclave overlooking the Lake Palace. Yeah, we're definitely not wearing the same shirt...

High Tea at City Palace

Wednesday, January 27, 2010

My New Haircut

Americans spend a lot on haircuts - some spend hundreds. In India, a haircut will cost you a fraction of what it does in the States. To be exact, my haircut today was $1.30 - and that includes a healthy, yet unnecessary, tip. It's not that I'm overly awed by the magnitude of the difference in price, but rather I feel like the price of a haircut is a good barometer to show the cost of unskilled labor in India relative to that in the U.S.

ISB has a barber that comes to campus a few days a week to work in the "Gentlemen's Beauty Parlour." This was my first experience in a beauty parlour (or parlor, for that matter). It wasn't anything more than a typical barbershop in the U.S. and, to be frank, I wasn't expecting much in terms of quality. I was pretty amazed. Maybe it's because my expectations were so low, but I thought the barber did a really nice job. It was probably better than the last several haircuts I got at home. And all for about one-fifteenth of the normal price I pay.

As you can tell, I'm starting to run out of good material. Hopefully that will change after this weekend, when Woodson and I travel to Udaipur and Jaipur. This will be my last visit to the northern part of India on this trip.

Tuesday, January 26, 2010

A Tribute to Mr. Powers

On Monday night, Woodson and I ventured off campus and went to a five star hotel just down the road. ISB is located in the middle of corporate park, just to the west of Hyderabad. A number of major western companies have operations here... Microsoft, Deloitte, Dell and UBS, to name a few. Because there are so many businesses here, this part of town is fairly westernized and has some nice hotels to accommodate business travelers. The hotel was full of Americans.

We went to the hotel for dinner to get some non-Indian cuisine. Amazingly, we found hamburgers on the menu - albeit, it was spelled "ham burger", two words. I got up enough courage to order one (you never know what their limited beef selection will be like here), but the waiter said the hotel was not serving hamburgers that day. I guess the beef shipment from Texas or wherever must have hit a snag. Indian food it was.

Kenny Powers

“Sure, I’ve been called a xenophobe, but the truth is I’m not. I just feel that America’s the best country and all the other countries aren’t as good. That used to be called patriotism." --Kenny Powers, Eastbound and Down

Republic Day

Today, January 26th, is Republic Day in India. It's a federal holiday celebrating the ratification of the Indian Constitution in 1950... India declared its independence from Great Britain in 1947. Because it's a federal holiday, we don't have class and everything is closed - it's also a dry holiday.

To celebrate Republic Day, most students are sleeping off the alcohol from last night's school-wide party. Yesterday, the Financial Times named ISB the twelfth "best" graduate business school in the world. Naturally, one would expect the campus to be pleased. The students and administration went over the top. Classes were moved back an hour to accommodate a celebratory lunch and the administration threw a big party last night, complete with food, booze, music and hookahs.

While I'm glad that the rankings benefited the school, they definitely made too big of a deal about it, especially given the arbitrary nature of the rankings. Also, I see a bit of a disconnect. In class the other day (and this has happened a few times), the professor went around the room to see who did the homework. Of the entire class, only three people completed the assignment - the three exchange students.

Sunday, January 24, 2010

Goa

Woodson and I used this past weekend to travel to and explore Goa. Goa is a series of beaches on the western coast of India, south of Bombay and on the Arabian Sea/Indian Ocean. The trip was virtually the opposite of the previous weekend in Varanasi in almost every way.

Goa Shore

We stayed at a nice hotel in North Goa right on the beach. Goa is sort of like a Cancun for Europeans. We were in a quieter part of North Goa, but lots of Brits and Russians. People also tended to be older where we were. That didn't stop us from having a good time though.

Goan Palms

We spent the entire weekend on the beach. The weather was hot, the water warm and the beer cold. We even got massages on the beach. The beach was lined with little shacks that would bring beer to you and grill fresh fish for meals. Relative to the rest of India, Goa has a lot of seafood. Goa was formerly a Portuguese colony, so a lot of European and Catholic influences.

Thursday, January 21, 2010

Autorickshaws

Autorickshaws or tuk-tuks, as they are called, are these wonderful three-wheeled contraptions. Every city in India is congested with thousands of these black and yellow or green and yellow vehicles. Rickshaws are available everywhere and are a convenient, cheap and fun way to travel short distances.

Autorickshaws or Tuk-tuks

Most rickshaws are really cheap. All are supposed to be metered - but, as foreigners, most fares must be negotiated beforehand. For example, we had a metered rickshaw that went ten miles over about forty minutes and the price was only 100 rupees - or about two dollars. Contrarily, if fares are negotiated, they are always a bit higher. Rickshaw drivers are always trying to rip off foreigners.

The driver sits in front and drives the rickshaw like a motorcycle. Two passengers can comfortably sit in the back of the covered vehicle - three people is a bit of a stretch, but I've seen some tuk-tuks with as many as ten Indians crammed in. The sides of the vehicle are open which allows for a refreshing breeze on hot days (and awful smells... see previous blog entry), but rides get quite chilly in the northern part of the country. Rickshaws are a good method of transportation because they can go anywhere. They weave in and out of traffic, nearly getting into accidents and running over pedestrians.

Taxis are tame, rickshaws are an adventure.

Tuesday, January 19, 2010

Sensory Assault

India is a sensory assault. Plain and simple. Any time you go out into the city - and it can be any city - all five of your senses are accosted and attacked. To be fair, I have to give Woodson credit for coining the term "sensory assault."

TASTE. Indian food runs the gamut. There are certain dishes that are simply wonderful, such as tender chicken or lamb kebabs. However, there are so many dishes that do not go down so easily. In all regard, the spices used are somewhat heavy to the American palette.

SOUND. Horns never stop. Hawkers follow you around. People talk quickly and loudly. The occasional sitar offers the only relief.

Peppers at the Market in Jaipur

TOUCH. India has some of the finest silks and materials, which are soft to the touch. Yet, that is countered with the dirty and gritty feel of everything else, which is caked in grime and germs.

SIGHT. Everywhere there is a lot of activity. A million people moving in a million directions. Many brightly colored things. People and animals defecating in the streets. Your eyes are both rewarded and punished.

SMELL. While walking down the street, you might encounter delicious smells from a local merchant frying up a samosa. Although, ten yards further along your walk, you may get a whiff of raw sewage.

The only place where your senses can relax and be at ease are in your hotel room.

This Is India

In the film "Blood Diamond", the main character utters the acronym "TIA" a number of times. "TIA" stands for "This Is Africa" and is used to explain why things are as backward as they are. Woodson and I have come up with a similar phrase - "TII" - This Is India. Any time something seems ass backwards (which is quite often), we look at each other and say "TII". Needless to say, but it gets used a lot.

One Fine Day

Here is how our weekend was supposed to end:

Sat 16:00 - Arrive at Varanasi Train Station
Sat 16:45 - Take train to Agra
Sun 5:45 - Arrive in Agra
Sun AM - Enjoy Agra, go to Taj Mahal
Sun 13:00 - Flight from Agra to Delhi
Sun 17:00 - Flight from Delhi to Hyderabad
Sun 19:00 - Arrive back at ISB in Hyderabad

And here's what actually happened...

Sat 16:00 - Arrive at Varanasi Train Station
Sat 16:10 - Learn that our train would be 3 hours late (it was actually 5 hours late)
Sat 21:30 - Board train to Agra
Sun 10:00 - Still not in Agra...
Sun 11:00 - Learn via Blackberry that flight to Delhi was cancelled
Sun 12:00 - Still on train, rebook flight for Monday AM from Delhi
Sun 17:30 - Arrive in Agra, 12 hours late, 20 hours on the train
Sun 17:40 - Learn that the Taj Mahal closes at 5pm (Woodson was devastated)
Sun 17:50 - Get a taxi from Agra to Delhi with two people from Wisconsin
Sun 21:45 - Arrive in Delhi after traveling for 25 consecutive hours, 30 hours if you count the train station
Mon 4:30 - Wake up and go to airport
Mon 7:00 - Flight from Delhi to Hyderabad
Mon 9:45 - Finally arrive at ISB

The trip back from Varanasi was absolutely horrendous. Not only was the train five hours late in leaving, but it took much longer than expected and completely ruined our travel plans. In addition to having to scrap our trip to the Taj Mahal (thankfully, I had already seen it), we had to rebook our flights, take a three hour taxi ride to Delhi and get a hotel room (which was necessarily plush after our horrific adventure - thank you Mr. and Mrs. W!!).

Woodson with a Glorified Sheet

Sitting on a train for 20 hours doesn't sound THAT bad at first, but you have to understand that we were in Sleeper Class, which is the lowest class on the train. The higher classes book up months in advance, so this is what we were stuck with. The Sleeper Class cars are very drafty and have windows that don't close all the way. In India, that doesn't sound like too much of a problem, but, unlike the stereotype of it being 120 degrees everyday, the temperature was probably in the low 40s that night and the low 50s during the entire day. Try sitting in 50 degree weather for 20 hours when you aren't properly attired. Oh, and they don't have food or water on the trains either.

The part that was really frustrating was lack of information. We never had any idea how far away we were from Agra (until I realized I had a GPS on my Blackberry... when we were 20km from Agra). Also, the train would go at a reasonable speed for ten minutes or so and then stop and sit in the middle of nowhere for twenty minutes. Pretty frustrating. We later learned that it was the worst fog of the season in the region and that everything was shutting down. Nice of them to tell us.

Red Dot, Green Dot

All over India, there are red dots and green dots. No, I'm not talking about the red dots on people's foreheads, but rather the dots that appear on menus, billboards and food packaging. The labeling exists because a significant portion of the population is vegetarian. I also think it exists for literacy reasons. So, for those looking for meat (which is called "non-veg" cuisine), the red dot is your friend. At first, I thought they just liked the Japanese here and that's what the red dot on the white background was for.

Green Dot

The above is a bottle of Coca Cola. This apparently did not have meat.

Monday, January 18, 2010

Photos Posted

Well, I've finally gotten around to putting my pictures up. All of my pictures are available at the website listed below. Unfortunately, I haven't had time to cut down the pictures, so as of now, there are 543. Feel free to peruse at your leisure, but in the coming weeks, I'll create an abridged version, complete with titles - for those who don't have seven hours to flip through random pictures of India. I'll continue to update this every week, so check back for new pictures.

Varanasi

Varanasi is one of the oldest and holiest cities in the world. It is the site on the Ganges River where Hindus come to bathe and send off their dead. There are a series of ghats (pronounced "gots") that lead down to the river. Ghats are essentially steps. Hindus bathe in the river believing it will cleanse their souls. Not wanting to grow an eleventh toe, we steered clear of the river.

Varanasi and the Ganges

We did, however, go on a boat ride. It was interesting to go along the ghats at night, where you could see fires burning. Hindus burn the bodies of their dead and then put the remains in the Ganges. However, certain types of bodies - such as women and children - aren't burned. Instead, a rock is tied to their corpses and they are sunken in the river. Really makes you want to go swimming, right??

"Varanasi is older than history, older than tradition, older even than legend, and looks twice as old as all of them put together." --Mark Twain

The Pilgrimage

After flying to Delhi from Hyderabad on Thursday afternoon, Woodson and I boarded an overnight train to Varanasi - one of the holiest cities in the world and our destination for the weekend. I had ridden the trains a few times before, but this was Woodson's first experience. To help us enjoy the train the most, the two of us "took down" a bottle of Royal Stag - at $6 per bottle, one of India's finest whiskies.

Royal Stag

To date, it has been my best experience on the trains - regardless of the fact that it took four hours longer than expected, amounting to 16.5 hours in total. More on the trains in India later. Much more.

Tuesday, January 12, 2010

Access Denied

India is a very conservative country. Period. Women still wear saris, alcohol is hard to find, arranged marriages are still prevalent. That being said, I expected things to be a little different here and people to be more reserved. However, I did not expect what I encountered last night.

When attempting to access a link on Yahoo! last night, here is what popped up:

ISB Internet Filter Message

Mind you, this was nothing racy, risque or inappropriate. It was actually a link to a story about Mark McGwire coming clean about his steroid usage. At ISB, students are more or less required to live on campus. That means ISB food, ISB housing, ISB internet. I understand that the school may have an interest in blocking certain sites which are illegal or promote dangerous behavior. For some reason, the folks in the administration here think students should not be able to read things in the "Entertainment category" even when they are at home.

There are certain sites that I read regularly at home - nothing too crude, heck I read them during class at Darden sometimes - that are blocked here. I've come to deal with that. This just put me over the edge. Pretty absurd.

On a side note, I've been in India for three weeks now and saw my first drop of rain today.

Woodson and I are traveling to Varanasi and Agra this weekend. I will report back to you on Monday.

Class at ISB

Today was the second day of my second week at ISB. Only three and a half weeks left. A nice short quarter. This term, I have three classes, which each meet twice a week for two hours each for five weeks. The classes are Service Business Ventures and Franchising, Economics of Strategy and Pricing. It sounds like a light load, but there's a lot of outside group work involved and, let's face it, I came to India to travel.

A Bastardized Version of Mickey Mouse

The classes are lecture-based for the most part, which makes them kind of slow. The real excitement comes when students participate. I've noticed that Indian students like to talk out of turn and not really raise their hand. I guess it's just a cultural thing. The other major difference is that laptop use is not permitted during class - this is a direct contrast to American business schools, where laptops are almost always in use.

One of my classes is taught by an American, but the other two professors, who are Indian, were educated in the U.S. One actually teaches at a peer business school. Most of the classes have about 60 students, 90% of whom are Indian. At least everything is in English.

Sunday, January 10, 2010

Hyderabad

Yesterday, Sunday, all of the exchange students at ISB - about 40 in number - went on a day-long tour of Hyderabad. The school itself is located on the outskirts of the city in one of the wealthier suburbs, dominated by technology firms. This was our first real taste of the city.

The first stop was a temple atop a hill overlooking Hyderabad. Like most temples in India, cameras and shoes were prohibited - I can feel the hookworm. Next, we spent two hours at lunch, enjoying our first taste of meat (lamb and chicken) in days. After lunch we walked around the city for a bit and saw the Charminar - some sort of religious building that dates back to the 1500s. To finish our tour in true Indian fashion, we stopped at a fort that was closed. All forts in India seem to close at 5pm. For me, this was the third fort I missed going in due to the time. Unfortunately, the students who led the tour failed to look at the hours of operation beforehand. Again, nothing in India is easy.

Charminar

I decided it would be a good idea to get up to watch the Green Bay Packer playoff game. Because of the time difference, that required me being awake from 3am to about 7am. I was able to watch a basketball game last week, but the internet wouldn't cooperate this morning. So, after watching the play-by-play updates, I decided to call it quits at halftime when the Pack was down 24-10. Upon waking up, I learned that Green Bay had lost in overtime in the highest scoring post-season game in NFL history. Hello Monday morning.

Another week of school begins. Woodson and I booked travel for the next few weekends, so we'll be gone for a few days each week exploring areas of India. Upcoming destinations include Varanasi, Agra (again for me), Goa, Udaipur and Kerala.

Friday, January 8, 2010

Don't Have a Cow, Man

Literally. As most people know, cows are sacred in India. Hindus, which account for about 80% of India's 1.2 billion people, believe that cows are the reincarnation of one of their 330 million gods. Yes, 330 million. Cows are symbolic of Krishna, one of the few main deities.

Female cows can be found meandering city streets throughout India. While they have owners - which I'm told they return to every night - they are free range throughout the day eating food and garbage on the street. They are a nuisance for traffic and don't much care for pedestrians. Trust me, I've been bucked by two of them. It doesn't feel pleasant. I've been told that male cows are often used on farms for labor.

Feeding a Cow a Banana Peel

Because cows are sacred, people are not permitted to kill them. I don't know what the penalty is, but I do know that you'd be hard-pressed to find a hamburger in most of the country. Apparently areas that are heavily populated with Muslims, such as Hyderabad, have beef available. I have still yet to see it. Even McDonald's doesn't serve beef - the Big Mac, which is called the Maharaja Mac ("King" Mac), has two pressed chicken patties. Similarly, almost all dairy products in India come from water buffalo. Milk, yogurt, curd, butter and cheese all are from water buffalo - ice cream too! Only babies in India are permitted to drink milk from cows.

Thursday, January 7, 2010

It Don't Come Easy

I have been in India for two full weeks now and have come to learn many things about its culture. One aspect of Indian culture that differs greatly from American culture is the ability to be efficient. I wouldn't say that the U.S. is overly efficient, but the amount of bureaucracy and time required to complete simple tasks in India is astounding. A la David Letterman, here are ten situations I have encountered that exemplify my point.

10). Certain things in India operate on weird schedules. For example, banks run on the 9-5 schedule, but are typically closed for three hours in the afternoon. Similarly, the outdoor pool is closed from 1-4pm, arguably the peak time of day.

9). Despite English being one of India's official languages, most people in service jobs (i.e. taxi drivers, waiters, hotel staff) know nothing but a few words.

8). Lines, or queues, do not exist in India. Whether at the airport or the library at school, Indians automatically ignore anybody else who is waiting and go directly to the front.

7). The price listed or quoted for an item is not the actual price. Everything has to be negotiated for and bargained. For example, in Jaipur, a pair of pants was quoted at 1,250 rupees (about $25). The final price paid was 200 rupees, or about $4. This phenomenon applies beyond retail businesses.

6). If you are on an elevator or train, expect Indians to push their way on before you get off. As illogical as this may seem, that's just how it is.

5). Upon arriving at school, I had the IT Department configure my laptop so I would be able to use email and internet. After going to IT four times, I still cannot print or turn in my assignments online. Additionally, I have to use three different web browsers - Explorer for anything ISB related, Firefox for normal browsing and Chrome for anything Google related, such as Gmail.

4). Students are required to register with the local police department. This process, which includes a really long form, photographs, copies and a two hour wait at the police station is necessary to avoid a hassle when leaving the country. Apparently my visa and other travel documentation didn't take care of that. I wouldn't be surprised if they ask for a blood sample as well.

3). Bathroom tissue (the PC name for TP) is not used in much of India. Instead, all bathrooms have a short hose with a spray nozzle attached next to the toilet. I'm not sure how it works, but it seems like it might be like a ghetto bidet of some sort. Needless to say, but trying to purchase bathroom tissue turned out to be quite the quest for Woodson and I - but a successful one.

2). The cafeteria at school has meat - one dish per day - but it is under lock and key. After initially signing in at the cafeteria, to procure chicken, you have to walk over to the far side of the kitchen, where a man stands guard in front of the meat "safe" - literally a locked oven. The man makes you sign a sheet, complete with your name, address and student identification number and then he himself signs it before providing the poultry.

1). When attempting to purchase a prepaid cell phone, significant documentation is required. It required two trips to the cell phone store, a trip to the copy shop and arguing with the very sketchy cell phone dealer. He claimed that my American-issued passport was a phony and that the visa issued by his government wasn't real. I never thought I would be called out as a questionable character by somebody who runs a cash-only cell phone shop in India.

I am enjoying India, but it is definitely teaching me to be patient.

Wednesday, January 6, 2010

Living at ISB

Living at ISB isn't too bad - the biggest drawback is that it's a gated compound. The campus here is a large tract of land in the middle of a corporate park. Financial and technology firms, such as Microsoft, Infosys, Ernst and Young and UBS, have large offices nearby. Our campus itself is surrounded by a large wall and has very tight security - even though this is probably the wealthiest part of Hyderabad and one of the wealthier areas of India. So, safety is not an issue.

Everything needed is on campus - cafeteria, gym, laundry, grocery store, barber shop, etc. However, it's nice to get out of here every so often. So far, I've used taxis to make the trip into town twice. The campus is really nice. It's only about 8 or 9 years old, so everything is still pretty new. There's a lot of green space here and the outside perimiter is wooded, which eliminates the office park feel.

Dorms at ISB

All of the students live in "dorms" here. I use quotation marks, because these are essentially apartments. Mine is much nicer than the one I lived in this summer in Manhattan. My apartment is a four-bedroom, two-bath abode, complete with a central living area and a small kitchen. I have two roommates, who I haven't really talked to, who are both Indian, yet on exchange from foreign schools. My room is pretty spacious and works well.

Monday, January 4, 2010

First Day of School

Yesterday, Monday, was my first day of school at the Indian School of Business (ISB). ISB is similar to Darden (which is the name of my graduate business school at the University of Virginia) in many respects. However, there are a lot of differentiating factors. First, 93% of the students are from India - there was one class where I was the only white person. Second, their program is one year long, while it's two at Darden. Third, the school is one giant compound. While Darden is part of the University of Virginia and students don't live on grounds, ISB is its own school and everything is within a gated community. All students live in dorms and everything you need is a five minute walk away.

Everything went well on the first day. I am still trying to get my classes in order - they have a terribly complicated course registration and bidding system. All of the classes are in English and some are taught by American professors. The workload seems similar to Darden, if not a little easier. Classes are two hours long each and meet two days a week. There are about 600 full-time students and 40 exchange students. Of the 40 exchange students, I would guess that about 25 are from the U.S., almost all from Darden's peer schools. One of my classmates from Darden, Woodson, is on exchange with me this quarter.

The temperature here is perfect. Parts of Northern India, near Delhi, were a bit chilly. It has been between 70 and 80 degrees, day and night, so far. As such, all of the American students wear shorts to class. However, as I found out, buying shorts in the U.S. in December is a bit tricky as they are not in season. Woodson learned that the hard way and decided to turn some chinos into shorts... or "chorts", if you will.

Woodson's "Chorts"

One of the highlights of the day yesterday was learning that the library at school has a large collection of English DVDs. This resource will definitely come in useful. To celebrate finishing our first day of school, per Woodson's suggestion, we drank cheap whiskey and watched Indiana Jones and the Temple of Doom - the one where he goes to India and battles a witchdoctor. Cultural sensitivity at its finest.

Villain from "Temple of Doom"

Mission Accomplished

I rode an elephant! It was glorious! On Saturday morning, Melisa and I went to Amber Fort, just north of Jaipur. The fort is on the top of a steep hill and we took an elephant to get to the top. It was pretty awesome. The ride was a lot shakier than I expected - although, given their size, I suppose it makes sense that elephants aren't overly graceful.

Riding an Elephant with Melisa

Snake Charmer

With the highlight of the day (if not the trip) in the morning, the otherwise interesting afternoon seemed like sort of a let down. We walked around the older part of Jaipur, which is known as the Pink City because of the reddish city walls. The city afforded us a few palaces and a neverending market, with vendors offering the two of us basically everything.

The Blue City

We took it pretty easy on Friday. In the morning, we walked around town for a bit. Jodhpur is a small town by Indian standards, about 500,000. It has plenty of winding streets and alleys to get lost in. All pour out into the center of town, which has a large market and a clocktower. After walking around for awhile, Melisa conned me into a lassi. A lassi is an Indian drink/dessert that is like a thick yogurty milkshake - but, because the cow is sacred, almost all dairy products come from water buffalo. Water buffalo yogurt, um, yeah...

Jodhpur - The Blue City

In the afternoon, we booked a jeep safari. The driver took us out of the city and into the desert-like countryside. We stopped at a few places and got to see a potter, some weavers, a few animals, a fabric factory and a rural hut, where a family lives without water or electricity. In fact, we were even offered opium at the hut - but declined to partake. In a few tiny villages, the Indian government still permits the use of opium.

After our tour, we booked it back to Jodhpur just in time to catch our train to Jaipur, our last stop in Rajasthan.

Saturday, January 2, 2010

New Year's Eve

Jodhpur is a nice change of pace from the rest of the places I have been to in India. Jodhpur is in the northwestern state of Rajasthan and sits on the eastern edge of a barren expanse, which separates India and Pakistan. People seem much more relaxed here. Everywhere else, Indians are pushy and jumpy - they really like to heckle tourists, especially the hawkers. The city is beautiful. Most of the buildings are designed in the Arabic style, with different levels and flat, open rooftops. Many of the rooftops are painted blue, which is a tradition that dates back centuries. Blue was not only a symbol of wealth, but also the indigo in the paint deflected the sun and kept pesky insects away. Jodhpur is known as the Blue City.

Our day was a bit more relaxed than the last few. We took a rickshaw up to the fort, which sits on a cliff overlooking the city. Our hotel conveniently sits right below the fort and offers an impressive view (the picture below was taken from our hotel). The fort was built in the 1400s to serve as protection for the city and house the palaces of the Maharaja of Rajasthan. Today, there still is a Maharaja, which is essentially a king, but he lives in a nearby palace and has almost no authority.

Fort Mehrangarh
Jodhpur was a great place for New Year's Eve. After having dinner nearby, Melisa and I walked back to our hotel to have a Kingfisher beer and enjoy the view of the fort at night. At around ten minutes to midnight, the sky started exploding with fireworks in all directions. Even our hotel shot off fireworks to ring in the New Year.

Agra

Our Wednesday started quite early with a 6:15am train from Delhi to Agra. The plushness of First Class definitely set the bar way too high for our expectations for the rest of our train travel. Upon arriving in Agra, we hired a driver for the day. Our first stop was the former capital of the province, Fatehpur Sikri, about 25 miles outside of Agra. The buildings, which date back to the 1500s, were only used for 20 years before the entire town moved away. Today the ruins stand basically untouched for 400 years.

Fatehpur Sikri

Next we drove back into Agra to see the main attraction - the Taj Mahal. The Taj was absolutely amazing. Although it's several hundred years old, the exterior looks like it was constructed recently. The building and grounds are pristine and it's hard to look away. The real beauty is on the outside though. After waiting an hour in line to walk through the Taj's innards, Melisa and I were less than impressed.

Taj Mahal

To finish up the day, we had our guide show us Agra Fort and some of the local merchants. There are several types of handmade artistry that Agra is known for - inlaid marble, Persian-style rugs and needlework. Melisa and I both blew some coin and bought handmade rugs.

After a harrowing experience on the train - which is a story for another day - Melisa and I made it to Jodhpur at 9am on Thursday.